Yakut must-have: The history of the haladaai dress. How to sew a Yakut dress Khaladai Description of national Yakut costumes

The state costume is largely determined by factors such as setting, history, and culture. For example, in cold countries natural soft gold is used as parts. Often there are national ornaments embroidered on fabric, perhaps religious symbols. Nowadays, the national costume is worn during national holidays and festivities and for the performance of national dances and songs.

Republic of Sakha: territorial location, climate, history, culture

Currently it is part of the Russian Federation, in the Far Eastern Federal District. The climate there is harsh, northern, with short summers and long winters, during which the air temperature can drop to 50 degrees below zero. This factor explains the use of fur and leather in the costume. As a people, the Yakuts (they are no Sakha or Sakhalar) descended from the Tungus, Paleo-Asians, Mongol- and Turkic-speaking nomadic tribes. For this reason, the details of the national costume contain the traditional rudiments of clothing of other nationalities. In ancient times, the Yakuts professed a religion called Aiyy. Even now, their traditions are to celebrate the triumph of Ysyakh, where the Aiyy Gods are glorified, shamans are present and throat rulada is used.

Samples of the first national costumes

It is believed that the history of traditional Sakha clothing begins in the 13th century. For that matter, animal furs and skins and coarse homespun wool were used for warmth. The robe was decorated with national ornaments, which were applied to the material by embroidery. When the Yakuts mastered cattle breeding, domestic ferrets became the main material. The costume was also decorated with it, for example, sleeves or collars were sewn on. In addition, the clothes were also decorated with velvet. The tangalay costume is considered one of the most ancient. He imagined the face of a product made of rawhide with fur inserts in the upper part of the sleeve. Grace was decorated with metal decorations and had slits on the sides. At the moment they don’t wear such a suit anymore.

Modern cut intention

The Yakut national costume has several traditional tailoring elements. A particularly popular cut is called “onooloooh, buuktaah”, and includes the following elements:

1. Buuk sleeve. Fluffy, loose, and ruched from time to time.
2. "Onoo." These are the folds on the back of the suit.

Until now, one cut is “kytyylaakh”. Its peculiarity is the presence of wide stripes of cloth material on the sides of the suit. Cumaceous color is often used when decorating.

National costume for adults

When sewing clothes for women, practical and natural fabrics are used, such as, for example, satin and chintz. Silk and notebooks are used to create festive attire. Women's national costume involves decoration with embroidery, beads and fur ornaments.

Traditionally, the fair sex wore a large amount of jewelry. Metal or beaded hoops with links falling along the face were put on the head. The hair was also decorated - the braid was called sukhuokh, in other words kiiste, and was fastened with straps made of rawhide. The famous chest piece of pride is the kebihar ilisurekh pendant, shaped like a cross. During production, techniques such as blackening and gilding were used. The large number of decorations expressed respect for the woman as the continuer of the family line; in addition, some of them played the role of amulets and talismans.

Women's wool is called sanyah. It is made from fox, sable and wolf fur. The wedding version is decorated with a fur pattern in the form of bird wings.

The completed wedding costume included the following elements: a face veil - annah, a rawhide shirt, natazniks - trousers, leggings - leggings from the knee to the ankle, doha - fur clothing with a pattern of wings, diabaka - a headdress with a protrusion on the top, slightly) somewhat reminiscent of a military helmet. Of course, a large amount of jewelry was included with the wedding attire: on the head, neck, and arms.

The Yakut efficient national costume looked much more modest than women's. There was always a fur trim on the collar and cuffs. It differed in the volume and height of the pile. Traditional patterns were embroidered along the edges of the hem, sleeves, as well as along the sides of fur coats and capes, often in blue, beige or brown. The male headdress was shaped like a military helmet. It was made from natural fur. Thanks to the ties, the neck and ears were convincingly protected from wind and frost. Some hats were decorated with ears, something symbolizing a connection with the cosmos and the Universe. Another decorative element was a full crescent or the sun, which meant continuation of the family. Also, hats were sometimes decorated with lush fur tails on the top.

Like they put on your feet

Shoes for both men and women were high boots - thousand etherbes. They were made from the skin of the shin of a deer - kamus, and stitched with felt. It was only in such shoes that one could feel comfortable in frosts down to 50 degrees above zero. Another option is a torbaza. Such shoes were made from cloth and leather and lined with felt and wool. She trimmed herself with the fur of a red fox, a silver fox, or perhaps a beaver. The most popular shoe colors: gray, beige, chestnut, black. Of course, the women's version was decorated with beads, embroidery, and fur patterns.

Summer shoes were called terehe and were shortened boots.

Yakut children's national costume

Almost completely copied the clothes of adults. The Yakut national costume for a girl was a smaller copy of the clothing of an adult Yakut woman. Children also wore unequal jewelry made of metal, beads, and fur.

The Yakut national costume for a boy was also no different from the attire of an adult man. Fur trim and modest embroidery are the components of the costume of a small Yakut.

Ritual clothing

For the sake of communication with spirits, the Yakuts were responsible for a special person - a shaman. His clothing was different from the costumes of ordinary people, and some of its details could have a special ritual meaning. For example, many costumes were decorated with fringe, reminiscent of plumage, along the sleeves and on the back. This design symbolized a bird. By putting on such a costume, the shaman was able to “fly” and communicate with other worlds. Minus the fringe, to identify oneself with a bird, their images were applied to the robe itself and used as pendants. These were mainly loon, crane, eagle and duck. The main material for tailoring was a stallion with the hair facing out. The shaman's head croak deserves special attention. The material was the skin from the head of a stallion, on which the ears and mane were left. Such a headdress was not decorated in any way; ordinary servants could not wear it.

Yakut folk costume today

Yakuts wear traditional clothes on national holidays. Samples of everyday and festive traditional clothing can also be seen in historical museums. The photo of the Yakut national costume can only be seen in our article. Today, a much larger range of fabrics and different styles are used. However, it is often possible to encounter traditional elements of the national costume: for example, modern wedding clothing and a diabach headdress. Show-offs from Yakutia, both made of precious metals and beads, are famous all over the world (the technique of working with the latter is passed down from mother to daughter in some families). Modern Yakut designers are often inspired by elements of the national costume and use them to create modern models.

It is impossible to imagine Ysyakh without traditional clothing. On the eve of the Yakut holiday, YSIA decided to recall the history of the haladaay dress - one of the main components of a woman’s costume.

Roots

Haladaai - traditional Yakut dress. Along with a sleeveless vest - kehiechchik- and silver jewelry makes up a festive women's costume, worn on the main summer holiday - Ysyakh. It appeared in the wardrobe of the Yakuts several centuries ago and, most likely, was borrowed from the inhabitants of neighboring regions of Siberia.

Festive Siberian khaladai made from daba, 19th century.

Cold, cold - women's outerwear for spring and autumn, common in Kursk, Oryol and some other provinces in the south of European Russia, as well as on the Don. In the southern Russian provinces, the cold jacket was made from factory-made black fabric on cotton wool with a lining. It was an open, single-breasted garment with a solid, widening back and the same flaps, without a collar, with a round collar around the neck, and long narrow sleeves. The cold jacket usually did not have a fastener; it was decorated with colored machine stitching along the collar and hem. In the first quarter of the 20th century, the cold jacket was considered very fashionable clothing. The Buryat women's voluminous dress is also called khaladaikha; made from silk fabrics, it is weekend wear in the Baikal region. Clothing similar in style and cut was common among the Altaians and Tatars (“Russian Traditional Costume”, 2001).

Researchers attribute the appearance of khaladaay among the Yakuts to the period of Christianization of Yakutia in the middle of the 17th century. At this time, new trade relations were actively developing, industrial goods appeared, including manufactured fabrics. In general, there is a strong influence of Russian culture on Yakut culture, which also affected clothing.

M. Nosov. Yakuts of the 17th century. Ysyakh.

In the old days, on Ysyakh and other holidays, people wore clothes made from traditional materials - fur, rovduga, leather. Women's festive attire, for example, consisted of natazniks with leggings, a sheepskin shirt with fur trim and beaded trim, an elegant sleeveless vest, a fur coat - tangalay, elegant shoes made of rovduga or kamus. Headdresses were: in winter - a bonnet with a fur lining or a winter hat with horns, in summer - a warm hood, headdress basting with rear suspensions, the girls wore a hat yay. Metal jewelry made of brass or silver was mandatory. At the same time, all elements of clothing and decor had a symbolic meaning, and their use was strictly regulated - the age, social status and financial situation of the owner could be determined from the outfit. The tradition of demonstrating one's wealth through clothing is one of the reasons why fur clothes and hats were worn at Ysyakh.

M. Nosov. Portrait of a Yakut girl.

In the middle of the 17th century, traditional materials began to replace manufactured fabrics. New types of clothing appeared, including the haladaay. Festive women's attire during this period included a coat - dream, dress haladaay, sleeveless- kehiechchik, headdress - diabak, elegant leather shoes, decorated with embroidery, beads or metal plaques, mittens and silver jewelry.

By the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, the khaladaay firmly entered the life of the Yakuts - it was worn both at home and on holidays. Homemade khaladaai were made from simple fabrics; for festive occasions they chose elegant and expensive ones. On Ysyakh, women dressed up in a festive khaladai with a sleeveless vest - kehiechchik, tied shawls on their heads or put on hats. This version of the festive outfit, with minor variations, has survived to this day.

Fabrics

For sewing khaladaai, both men's and women's, light, well-draped fabrics were chosen. Everyday haladaai were made from chintz, dab, linen, and teak. They were mostly of calm colors and were not richly decorated. For weekend dresses, more expensive fabrics were chosen - satin, brocade, taffeta, silk. Over time, the traditional decoration of beads and metal plaques began to be replaced with more affordable ones: braid, bugles, silk thread, soutache. They were used to decorate collars, dress hems, and cuffs.

A full weekend suit consisting of a smart khaladai and a sleeveless vest (based on a drawing by M. Nosov)

An obligatory pair for the festive haladai was a sleeveless vest - kehiechchik, it was sewn from bright fabrics and richly decorated, first with beads, rovduga and fur, and later with sequins, rhinestones, and braid.

Color

Initially, color did not play a big role in traditional clothing, since the latter was made from natural materials that did not have a rich color palette. The exception was beads used to decorate clothes. The Yakut costume, as a rule, used white, blue and black colors. As fabrics spread, color became one of the main means of expressiveness in costume.

In Yakut clothing, color had both symbolic and utilitarian meaning. First of all, it depended on the seasonal purpose of the product. Everyday items were predominantly neutral, dark tones; festive costumes were distinguished by bright colors and combinations of contrasting colors.

The symbolic meaning of color was largely determined by its incarnations in nature. Red color - the color of blood - personified the soul, vitality. Green - the color of grass, awakening nature - symbolized youth, the flourishing of life, immortality. Blue - heavenly color, symbol of Salgyn-kut (heavenly soul) - a sign of development, the flourishing of life. Yellow And white – the colors of the sun’s rays, snow – are a symbol of life, happiness, the positive forces of nature, all the best. Black , dark gray , brown - the color of Mother Earth, the earthly soul - Buor-kut.

Cut

In the ancient clothing of the Yakuts, like other northern peoples, a predominantly straight cut predominated, this was explained by the characteristics of the source material - animal skins. It was more rational, and straight clothes provided better protection from the cold. With the advent of manufactured fabrics and under the influence of European culture, a trapezoidal silhouette became established in traditional Yakut clothing, the “onooloooh, buuktaah” cut (with folds, frilly sleeves) and additional elements appeared: collar, cuffs.

Ancient women's shirt-khaladai (drawing by M. Nosov)

According to the artist and ethnographer Mikhail Nosov, the prototype of the modern haladaai is the shirt-dress of the same name. It was made from dab or simple fabric; the oldest examples, dating from the mid-17th century, had light ruffles at the front and back at the collar. The collar, as a rule, was replaced by a light rope or leather edging; the edges of the sleeves and the cut at the neck were processed in the same way. At a later time, gatherings began to be done in the chest area and along the bottom of the sleeves.

Women's dress haladaay of the second half of the 19th - early 20th centuries.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the silhouette of the dress was finally formed: the Yakut khaladaai had a yoke with a front clasp and a large turn-down collar. A wide rectangular frill was sewn along the chest line - a fold and a falbor, and sometimes two. The upper part of the sleeve was heavily shirred along the edge, and narrow cuffs were sewn along the bottom. The resulting puff emphasized the wealth of the owner - the richer the person, the more magnificent the sleeve. Thin black lace or lace to match the dress was sometimes sewn along the joining line of the falbora and along the bottom of the cuffs. The men's khaladaay had a similar cut, with the only exception that it was shorter than the women's and was decorated more modestly. In this form, the haladaai survived until the middle of the 20th century, when, under the influence of fashion trends, the silhouette became more elegant - fitted dresses, vests, and coats appeared. The decor became simpler, silver decorations replaced beaded decorations. Traditional elements of festive attire were preserved in remote villages, where the influence of urban culture was not so strong.

In the first decade of the 21st century, interest in national clothing and jewelry began to revive - wearing them on Ysyakh is becoming a widespread tradition. However, as researchers of Yakut costume note, often designers, trying to modernize an outfit, do not strive to follow the traditional cut, using only some of its features. As a result, clothing becomes more and more stylized, and ignorance of the symbolism of decor leads to errors in costume design. So, for example, men's festive clothes are decorated with floral patterns, which have been characteristic of women's clothing since ancient times, and head decorations - basting and a hat- yay Traditionally worn by young women and girls, today they can also be seen on older women.

The article uses data from the monograph by S. Petrova and Z. Zabolotskaya “Folk costume of the Yakuts” and research by M. Nosov “Clothing and jewelry of the Yakuts of the 17th-20th centuries.”

Yakutia, Republic of Sakha is a small, remote and rather cold region of the Russian Federation. That's all that, as a rule, the vast majority of the population of our country knows about this area. Meanwhile, the Yakuts are an amazing people.

Briefly about the region

A few centuries ago, on the territory of modern Yakutia, the Yakut district, the predecessor of the modern region, was located. The current Republic of Sakha was formed in April 1922 - initially as an Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic. In 1990, it was transformed into the Yakut-Sakha SSR, and it received its modern name a year later.

Yakutia is part of the Far Eastern Federal District and covers an area of ​​more than three million square kilometers. At the same time, the population of the entire district barely reaches a million. The main city of Yakutia is considered to be Yakutsk, which grew out of the Yakut fort on the right bank of the Lena. One of the peculiarities of the region is that two state languages ​​officially coexist on its territory - Russian and Sakha.

Where did the Yakuts come from?

There are legends about the origin of the Yakuts. One of them, for example, claims that this people is the fundamental principle of all humanity, since Adam and Eve, from whom all people on Earth descended, were northerners. Another version speaks of the existence in ancient times of a certain Tygyn, from whom the Yakuts supposedly originated. There is also an opinion that the Yakuts are Tatar tribes from the time of the Horde, that they are the descendants of ancient Europeans, that the Evenks and many, many others are genetically close to them. Nevertheless, archaeological research has revealed that people began to live on the territory of future Yakutia already during the Paleolithic. In the first millennium AD, the ancestors of the Evenks and Evens came here; Turkic-speaking tribes continued to inhabit the region until the fifteenth century. According to historians, the Yakuts were formed as a result of the mixing of Turkic-speaking and local tribes. Also in the blood of the Yakuts there may be genes of alien Tungus.

Features of the Yakuts

It is easy to recognize a Yakut by its appearance. They usually have an oval face with a wide forehead, slightly slanted eyelids, and large, black eyes. The mouth is also large, the enamel of the teeth is yellowish, the nose is usually hooked, but can also be straight. The skin color is greyish-yellow or dark-skinned. The hair is black, coarse, and does not curl. Growth is usually small. The Yakuts have a fairly high life expectancy.

This people has well-developed hearing, but their vision, on the contrary, is not very good. They are not known for their speed of movement; they do everything slowly. You won’t find super strong athletes among the Yakuts either. The nation is characterized by high efficiency. For a long time, their main occupations were horse breeding, cattle breeding, fishing, and fur-bearing animal hunting. The Yakuts also processed wood, tanned hides, sewed carpets, clothes, and blankets.

Religion occupies a huge place in the life of the Yakuts. Now they are Orthodox, but since ancient times their life has been closely connected with shamanism (in some places this remains to this day).

Dwelling of the Yakuts

Since the ancestors of the Yakuts were nomadic people, the current Sakhalars (this is their self-name) live in yurts (of course, not all of them; this does not apply to city dwellers). Their settlements are a collection of several houses. The Yakut dwelling differs from the Mongolian yurts in that it is built from round logs, and not from felt. Only small trees are used. It is a sin for them to cut down tall, large trees - this is one of the traditions and customs of the Yakuts.

The roof is made cone-shaped, and the door is located on the east. In addition, Yakut yurts have many small windows, along which there are a wide variety of sun loungers - low and high, wide and narrow, fenced off from each other so that they form small rooms. The highest lounger is intended for the owner, the lowest is located near the entrance to the house.

As a rule, yurts are placed in lowlands so that they are not blown by the wind. Often houses are made collapsible - if the tribe leads a nomadic lifestyle. The choice of a place to build a home is very important for the Yakuts - it should bring happiness.

National costume

The Yakut costume directly depends on temperature conditions - the climate in the Sakha Republic is not hot, which is why clothes are often sewn using horse or cow hide (and not just fabric). Fur is used for winter clothing.

The costume itself is a caftan with wide sleeves and a belt, combined with leather pants and fur socks. In addition, the Yakuts also wear fabric shirts, belted with a strap. In addition to fur and leather, a wide variety of materials are used - silk, cloth, and rovdugu. In ancient times, suits were often made from suede. The festive suit is more flared at the bottom, with puffed sleeves and turn-down collars.

Yakut wedding

A wedding among the Yakuts is a special phenomenon. There is an ancient sacred tradition, according to which the parents of a baby must find her a future life partner almost from the very moment of birth. They choose a boy and for many years observe his life, character, habits, behavior - after all, it is very important not to make a mistake in the game for their daughter. As a rule, first of all they pay attention to those boys whose fathers are in good health, strong, resilient, know how to work with their hands - make yurts, get food, and so on. This means that such a man will pass on all his skills and abilities to his son. Otherwise, the boy is not considered as a potential “groom”. Some parents of daughters manage to choose a future husband for their baby quickly, while for some this process takes quite a long time.

Matchmaking also relates to the traditions and customs of the Yakuts and proceeds as follows. The girl is forbidden to leave the house on this day, and her parents go to the candidate’s house for her hand in marriage. They talk not with the guy himself, but with his parents, describing to them all the advantages of their daughter - here it is very important to try to make their future daughter-in-law like them in absentia. If the guy's parents don't mind, then they name the size of the bride price - previously the bride price was given in deer (this is still the case in some places), now it is in money. When the parents shake hands, the ceremonial preparations for the wedding begin. The girl is prepared for the ceremony by her mother. She must give her daughter a dowry, which certainly includes richly decorated outfits - this shows that the bride is not from the poor.

Yakut wedding attire used to be made only from natural materials, but now this is not so necessary. Only one thing is important: dazzling white color, it means purity and innocence. Also, the outfit must have a tight belt.

The girl chooses the wedding time. At first, the bride and groom are in different yurts. The shaman (instead it may be the father of the bride or the mother of the groom) fumigates them with birch bark smoke - it is believed that this cleanses the newlyweds of various slander and everything bad. Only after this ritual are they allowed to see each other and make a traditional circle around their future home (important: until this moment, the bride and groom do not meet face to face; someone must always be next to them). Then they are declared legitimate husband and wife and a meal begins, during which the girl must wear amulets - they protect the newly-made family from evil and disease. Traditional dishes at a Yakut wedding are venison, beef, fish, and foal. Drinks include kumiss and wine.

Before the wedding, Yakut girls can walk with their heads uncovered; after getting married, the young wife must now hide her hair from everyone except her husband.

Yakut art

Yakut songs are also special. First of all, we are talking about olonkho - local epic folklore, which is considered a type of poetry. It is performed like an opera. This is the oldest type of Yakut art, which is now considered a UNESCO property.

Olonkho can be of any size - the maximum reached thirty-six thousand (!) lines. They include all the traditional traditions and tales of the Yakuts. Not everyone can perform Yakut songs - for this you need to have the gift of oratory and the ability to improvise, as well as be able to give your voice different intonations and colors. Olonkho is told without interruption - up to seven nights in a row, so the performer must also have a good memory (however, this is a distinctive feature of all Yakuts).

The Yakuts also have their own national musical instrument. It looks like a jew's harp; some consider it a type of jew's harp. This instrument is called khomus. Also included in the art of the Yakuts is throat singing, for which they are very famous.

Traditions and customs

Some traditions and customs of the Yakuts have long remained unchanged. So, to this day they greatly revere nature, believing that it is alive. They believe in the existence of good and evil spirits and that nature helps fight the latter. For example, lightning, thunder, thunderstorms, according to their beliefs, are pursued by evil spirits. The wind also has its own spirits - they guard peace on earth. The Yakuts especially reverence water; they bring it offerings - boats made of birch bark. Do not put anything sharp into the water - it can injure her. Among the Yakuts, fire is considered the patron saint of the hearth; previously they did not extinguish it, but when moving from place to place, they took it with them in special pots. The Yakuts pay special respect to the spirit of the forest, which helps them in their fishing. The sacred animal for these people is the bear, whose claws they wear as amulets and talismans.

Their numerous holidays are closely connected with the traditions and customs of the Yakuts. For example, Ysyakh, which takes place at the beginning of summer. This is a family holiday, symbolizing the friendship of peoples; it is considered the most important among the Yakuts. Its other name is “Koumiss Festival”. At the end of it, you definitely need to perform a special round dance in honor of the sun - in this way you thank the luminary for its warmth.

The traditions and customs of the Yakuts also include blood feud. There are also a lot of birth rituals. And when you die, you need to call one of the young people to you and leave him all your connections - tell him about both friends and enemies.

1. Yakutia is the only region in our country where there are three time zones at once (the difference with Moscow is 6, 7 and 8 hours).
2. Almost half of the territory of Yakutia is located beyond the Arctic Circle.
3. Yakutia has first place in the Russian Federation in terms of the total amount of reserves of all natural resources.
4. In addition to the two state languages, Evenki, Even, Dolgan and Yukaghir dialects are common in the Sakha Republic.
5. Yakuts do not grow hair on their bodies.
6. Almost every Yakut family has special national knives with an asymmetrical blade.
7. Yakut legend says that the Sat stone, which is taken from the stomachs of birds and animals, is considered magical, but it will lose its power if a woman looks at it.
8. Sakhalar is the self-name of the Yakuts, and Sakhalar is a person born from the marriage of a Yakut and a European.

These are not all the features and customs of the Yakuts. Such an interesting nation needs to be studied long and carefully in order to be fully imbued with their spirit - just like any other nation on Earth.

On the eve of the main holiday of the Sakha people - Ysyakha - the editors of the site reviewed expensive and budget options for the Yakut national costume for men and women. As an example, we chose last year's outfits of the head of Yakutia Aisen Nikolaev and his wife Lyudmila.

According to ethnographer and NEFU teacher Kapitolina Maksimova, the main element of a man’s suit is the coat. However, Il Darkhan, like most of his contemporaries, looks more like a frock coat. This is the influence of city life. Such light coats were worn by the urban intelligentsia in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The only difference is the fur trim. In general, Nikolaev’s costume is an interpretation of the traditional “kytyylakh son” coat with large shoulders and a black collar. It used to be that the larger the shoulders, the wealthier the person. The collar also spoke about the social affiliation of the owner.

“In recent years, it has become very fashionable to wear two-piece suits. Men, under the influence of modernity, prefer coats in light shades. They love green, dark blue, light blue colors. After all, Ysyakh is a summer holiday and you want something brighter. Silver diamond-shaped designs are also on trend. They act as a talisman - “bies harakh”. Silver buttons are also in fashion for men. Typically, in a traditional suit, a shirt is worn under the coat. It is the same cut as the haladai, but only shorter. A modern and business person, especially Aisen Sergeevich, has the right to afford an ordinary shirt and tie. After all, he probably changes into a jacket and greets guests.

Another mandatory element of a men's suit is a belt (chur). Today's chic is silver belts. Previously, ornaments were often confused: instead of masculine ones, feminine, floral patterns were applied. Today the situation has improved, and men wear real men's belts with geometric and discreet designs. In general, almost anything can be depicted on the belt. Personally, I saw Manchaars, ulus coats of arms, various animals. And that's okay. Why not? What they saw was also applied to traditional belts. For example, on some belt there was a picture of a leopard. It turned out that somewhere at some time a leopard from the Amur ran in. All this, of course, is done for protective reasons. Many peoples of Siberia have such belts. A knife must be hung from the belt; it shows the masculinity of its owner. You can also carry various utilitarian items on the belt. For example, earlier it could have been a flint. Fur was worn in the summer for beauty and to show one’s wealth. A mosquito fan - deybiir - is also a must. A special luxury is the silver handle, like Aisen and Lyudmila Nikolaev.

The costume is completed with a horsehair headdress and leather boots. A man's degree of panache was determined by his shoes. Today boots are made in the European style. This is a stylized shoe, with a contrasting stripe on the toe. If previously it had a utilitarian meaning, now it is used as a decorative element. The upper edge (bile) of men’s shoes has geometric patterns and sometimes stripes,” the ethnographer emphasized.

As for Lyudmila Nikolaeva’s costume, according to Kapitolina Maksimova, it is also made in a modern manner. This is an interpretation of the traditional women's coat "thangalai son". Previously, sleeveless vests - three-quarter sleeves - were worn only by married women as a symbol of the fact that after marriage a girl's wings were cut off. Usually such a coat was made of rovduga, trimmed with beads and fur.

“A woman’s costume is, of course, a haladai. Now it is sewn from modern and pleasant materials. For example, Lyudmila has several layers of chiffon. Previously, the khaladai was made of simple material; in ordinary life it was worn on top of each other. At the same time, every self-respecting woman had a ceremonial khaladai. Since Ysyakh was the only holiday when people dressed up, went somewhere and met people, they put on their best. Khaladai is not worn without a vest (kehiechchik). The dress must be long. Short dresses, as well as narrow-waisted khaladai, like those worn by Kazakh women, are considered only stylized. This is far from a haladai or a traditional dress. Nowadays it is fashionable to wear black dresses; they look great with silver. However, they used to choose light colors for the holiday,” she said.

Unlike clothing, jewelry has greater protective power, the ethnographer continues. In women's jewelry, lyre-shaped and floral patterns are permanent. They are a symbol of fertility.

“Lyre-shaped patterns and ornaments are applied not only to jewelry, but also to clothing and shoes. What do they usually say about earrings with such patterns? How many children and grandchildren you have, so many pendants. All this, it seems to me, is the creation of myths in recent years. If we are talking about archaic ones, then these are earrings in the shape of a question mark. Regarding round plaques, like Lyudmila’s. Previously, it was believed that there should be three of them (үс үннех): on the head, ilin kebiһer and on the belt. They have a strong protective function. As Svetlana Petrova described, the sun (kun) symbolizes the girl’s innocence and protects her from evil spirits.

The bastynga did not look like it does now; it was once a leather hoop. It became metal about 50 years ago. In general, married women did not wear bastyng. It was a girl's decoration. A silk scarf was especially chic for women, although this is also the influence of Russian culture. If we go completely back to the ethnographic period, then a diabak cap was put on over the bastyng. If you look at a photo from Ysyakh at the end of the 19th century, you will notice that everyone is dressed warmly. This is because everyone put on their best. The more fur and silver, the more influential the family was considered. Ysyakh was a place of matchmaking.

In general, the image of Il Darkhan and his wife is a successful example of a combination of new trends and national traditions. The costumes are bright and fresh. Unlike tacky outfits, they are minimalist, there is nothing superfluous in them,” the ethnographer emphasized.

Jewelry, accessories and other details of the Yakut costume of the Nikolaev family in the jewelry store were rated as follows:

• earrings - 5000;
• breast decoration (ilin kebiһer) - 66,000;
• bastyng with a crown - 57,000;
• a pair of bracelets (bөҕөх) - 48,000-50,000;
• mosquito fan made of white horsehair with a silver handle (daybiir) - 52,000;
• men's belt - 40,000-50,000;
• Yakut knife with a silver handle - 50,000;
• mosquito fan made of black horsehair with a silver handle (daybiir) - 52,000;
• button (1 piece) - 756;
• large sewn-on amulet for a camisole (1 piece) - 3780;
• set of small sew-on amulets (10 pcs) - 1600.

As one of the republic’s famous seamstresses told the site, last year the fabric used in the Nikolaevs’ costume cost 4,500 rubles per meter. Natural blue mink costs 5,000-6,000 rubles, and about 15 pieces are used in their costumes. About 7 meters of fabric were spent on the haladai, which will cost approximately 3,500 rubles. For sewing a women's suit, the master asked 5,000-7,000 rubles, for a men's suit - from 10,000 to 15,000.

The price for boots made of genuine leather without silver inserts in the capital's stores is in the range of 6,000-8,000 rubles. The price of a horsehair skullcap starts from 1950 rubles and above, the price depends on the work of the master. The minimum price for a hat made of the same material is 6,500 rubles.

So, if you want a full-fledged look, like the Nikolaev couple, then be prepared to pay 400,000 rubles just for jewelry, accessories and other clothing items. The cost of a pair of suits, taking into account the work of the master, will be about 120,000 rubles. In total - more than half a million rubles.

In search of a budget option, we went to the Capital Market. Men's and women's stylized shoes are sold there for 1,500 rubles, large ilin kebiһer start from 1,000 rubles, bastyng - from 800. For earrings you will have to pay 200 rubles, for a men's belt and bracelets (bөҕөkh) - 500 rubles each. Haladay and a men's summer coat cost 3,500 rubles each.

We did not find a vest (kehiechchik), a mosquito fan (deybiir), a Yakut knife or a horsehair hat at the market. Perhaps they are there, but they are not noticeable. But in stores in the city center, the missing goods are presented for every budget, taste, color and size. Please note that the prices in the table, where we compared the cost of things at the Capital Market and in stores in the city center, are indicated for large jewelry and accessories.

	Market "Capital"	Shops in the center of Yakutsk
Haladay	3500	4500
Ke һ iechchik		2600
Camisole	3500	6500
Boots	1500	2800-3700 (leatherette) 6000-8000 (leather)
Horsehair hat		1950 (skullcap) 6500 (hat)
Daybiir		5000
Men's belt	500	2900 (Chinese)
Yakut knife		5200-7500
Earrings	200	200 (Chinese)
Bastyng	800-1000	1500-1800 (Chinese) 5850 (from cupronickel)
Chest decoration (ilin kebiһ er)	1000	1500-1800 (Chinese) 5900 (from cupronickel)
Bracelets (god oh)	500	300-400 (Chinese) 3500-5000 (from cupronickel)

It is worth emphasizing that everyone has their own options for a budget or expensive suit. It all depends on the amount a person is willing to spend. In any case, there is plenty of choice in stores. At a minimum, a woman can buy herself silver earrings, and a man can tie himself with a sash, ethnographer Kapitolina Maksimova is sure. In all this abundance of goods and clothing styles, the main thing is to adhere to the principles of modern traditional costume. For example, don’t wear dresses that are too short, and you shouldn’t delve into the canons either. It is important to remember that the national costume is the face of the people.

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