Pattern for a children's jacket with a hood. Ready-made pattern for a children's jacket Sew a jacket for an 11-year-old girl from fleece

To create a pattern for a children's jacket, you need measurements for an individual or standard figure, as well as a table of allowances for a loose fit.

For a standard figure, usesize chart .

Measurements needed to create a pattern:

Сг - half chest circumference,




St - half waist circumference,




Sat - half hip circumference,




Shg - chest width,




Dts - back length,




Shs - back width,




Di - product length,




Shp - shoulder width,




Dr - sleeve length.

To build a pattern for a children's jacket, we first build a mesh, which we start by constructing a right angle with the vertex at point O.

From point O, the vertical line is taken as the middle of the back, and the horizontal line as the level of the top of the back neck.

From point O to the right horizontally, measure a segment equal to the width of the product along the chest line Cg + Pg (loose fit 6 cm) and mark the top with point O1.

O O1 = Cr + Pg.

The vertical line drawn from O1 down is the line of the middle front (shelf).

Waistline

From point O downwards we measure the length of the backrest Dts = 26 cm and mark it with point T.

From point T we draw a horizontal line to straight line O1 and designate it as points T1.

Bottom line

From point O downwards we measure the length of the product:
Di + Pr (for insulation) + Pr (for elastic)

Di = 45 + 2 +3 = 50 cm and denoted by point H.

From point H we draw a horizontal line to straight line O1 and designate it as point H1.

Now we denote the segment O O1: 2 as a2.

From a2 down to segment H H1 we lower vertical line and denote H2, and at the intersection with the segment T T1 we denote T2.

Armhole depth line

We divide the segment a2 T2 into 3 equal parts. 2/3 and there will be a line for the depth of the armhole and we designate it as point G2.

From G2 in both directions we draw a horizontal line.

Back width

From point O to the right we measure Shs + Pr and designate it as point a.

Shelf width

From point O1 to the left we measure the width of the chest Shg + Pr and mark it with point a1.

Armhole width

From points a a1 down to straight line G2 we lower vertical lines. This will be the limit of the width of the armhole.

Construction of the back and shelf

Back neck

From point O downwards we measure 1.5 cm and mark it as point A.

From point O to the right we measure 5 cm and mark it as point A1.

We construct the angle A, 1, A1 = A, O, A1.

We connect points A1 A with a smooth line.

Shelf neck

From point O1 to the left 5 cm and denoted A2.

From point O1 downwards we measure 6 cm and mark it with point A3.

For children, the balance is zero and therefore the height of the shoulder of the back and shelf will be at the same level. Balance is the difference between the Dtp2 and Dts2 measures.

Back shoulder line

From point a downwards we measure 2.5 cm and mark it as point 3.

From point A1 through point 3 we measure Shp + 1, where 1 cm is given for shrinkage instead of dart and denoted by point P.

Shelf shoulder line

From point A1 downwards we measure 2.5 cm and denote it as point 4, and from point A2 through point 4 we measure Шп and denote it as point P1.

Armhole line of the back and shelf

We connect the points P G2 P1 with a smooth line as shown in the figure. Do this by eye or using a “droplet” pattern. Just make sure that the tops of the armholes are at right angles.

Sleeve

To construct the sleeve, draw two mutually perpendicular lines with the center at point O1.

Edge height

O1 O2 = 6 cm

Sleeve width at the edge

From O2 with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole (in the drawing of the front and back), we make notches on a horizontal line, passing through O1 and mark them with points P1 P2.

O2 P1 = O2 P2 = Dpr: 2, where Dpr is the length of the armhole contour, and P1 P2 is the width of the sleeve when unfolded.

We divide the segments O1 P1 and O1 P2 in half and construct perpendiculars.

Now let’s define auxiliary points for designing the sleeve cap:

3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

Segments P1 3; 3 O2; O2 4; 4 P2, divide in half.

From the obtained points we construct perpendiculars.

From points 5 and 6 1 cm, from point 7 - 0.5 cm, from point 8 - 1.5 cm.

We draw a line through the points P1 3 O2 4 P2.

Sleeve length

From point O2 downwards, measure the length of the sleeve + 2-3 cm for the elastic band.

Sleeve width at bottom

Along a horizontal line from point M we measure the width of the sleeve (according to the model): M M1 = M M2 = W arms. below (at finished form).

Cuff with elastic band

Draw a rectangle whose width is equal to the width of the bottom of the sleeve, and the height of the rectangle is equal to the width of the elastic multiplied by 2.

If the elastic is inserted into the cuff, then you need to add 0.5 cm; if you sew the elastic with the cuff together, then you do not need to add 0.5 cm.

If you do not want cuffs, you can only sew on the elastic, as shown on the model in the photo.

Pocket

You can make any pockets: patch pockets, patch pockets with a flap, welt pockets with a leaf, welt pockets with a zipper.

Hood

The hood of our model consists of two parts.

Let's take two measurements:

from the base of the neck through the head to the base of the neck,




from the 7th cervical vertebra to the forehead.

The length of the neck of one part of the hood is equal to the length of the neck of one shelf and half of the back.

Collar

Stand collar. Draw a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the neck of the back and shelf. The collar height is at your discretion. In this case 6 cm.

Plank

Draw a rectangle, the length is equal to the length of the center of the shelf, the width (according to the model is 6 cm). Round off the ends on one side.

We have completed the construction of the children's jacket and now let's check all the details and mark on them the direction of the grain thread, the name of the part and its quantity:

Autumn! Summer clothes we hide it until next season, take out raincoats, jackets and other warm things.

If adults can wear clothes for several seasons, then children have to update their wardrobe every season - children grow up!

We really hope that the proposed children's jacket pattern will help dressmaker mothers please their children with timely new clothes.

This jacket is suitable for both boys and girls. It can be different: light, waterproof, demi-season or winter. It depends on what material you choose for the top of the jacket, what kind of insulation you use, etc.

Ready-made pattern for a children's jacket designed for a child 3 - 4 years old, height 104 cm, chest girth 57 - 58 cm. Since children, even at this age, have different builds, before cutting, it is necessary to check the height and chest girth of the child.

A table of children's clothing sizes, as well as the ratio of the child's age, height, chest circumference and weight

The finished pattern for a children's jacket is given no seam allowances.

Preparing the pattern for work is simple. But if you have questions about free download the pattern, you can see detailed instructions. Other file hosting services work on a similar principle. Be careful. We only offer free patterns.
How to print a pattern is described in detail.

You can download a program for viewing and printing patterns.

Print out the pattern sheets and connect them according to the diagram. The pattern is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first sheet.

Be sure to check the scale for consistency. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the document print scale to 100% (no scaling).

Before cutting, double-check that your measurements match the pattern parameters.

If necessary, adjust the pattern and only then proceed to cutting, remembering to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.

Additionally to the main details you need to cut:
- Pick-up(2 parts), it is indicated by a thin dotted line on the shelf pattern. For ease of use, copy the selection as a separate pattern;
- Zipper placket(1 piece with fold) 48 cm long and 8 cm wide (finished 4 cm) plus seam allowances;
- Kulisku(1 piece) 78 cm long and 2 cm wide plus seam allowances;
- Sleeve cuffs(2 parts) length 24, width 6 cm (finished 3 cm) plus seam allowances;
- Binding for processing a sleeve cut(2 pieces) 16 x 3 cm plus seam allowances.
- Fold details voluminous pockets: for lower pockets (4 parts) 13 x 3 cm, for upper pockets (4 parts) 8 x 3 cm plus seam allowances. These parts can be cut one-piece with pockets, adding 3 cm along the side cuts, plus a seam allowance. If processing such pockets seems difficult for you, you can process regular patch pockets.

You will also need a detachable zipper 45 cm long.

The lining and insulation are cut according to the main parts. When cutting the lining and back insulation, you should first combine the patterns of the yoke and the main part of the back. And when cutting the shelf, subtract the width of the hem. It is best to pre-make patterns for the lining and insulation by copying the main patterns onto a separate sheet of paper, cut off the hem from the shelf, and align the yoke line on the back.

Having swept away the parts, try on the product, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.

Advice: After connecting the hood to the lining at a distance of 2 cm from the edge along the front side, you can lay a stitch to form a drawstring, insert a lace or elastic band, bring out the ends and insert the fasteners. For the ends of the lace, you must first process the hole (loop or grommet).

For those who want to create a pattern for a specific child’s figure based on the measurements taken, we have detailed step by step instructions building a foundation baby dress, trousers, shirts, skirts (). Having such basic patterns, you can create a wide variety of clothing styles.

Sewing this children's jacket, depending on the chosen fabric and the corresponding processing technology, may seem either simple or complex. Weigh your strengths, or rather your attitude, and get to work.

Leave your questions, wishes and suggestions in the comments to a specific article. We will definitely consider them.

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The lining part of the jacket is ready (we looked at how to sew it in, you will also find a pattern there), but the finished product is still far from finished: you still have a million more parts from the raincoat fabric that need to be sewn, parts from the jacket garter for the cuffs and collar, snake... In this master class we will tell you how to correctly combine all these parts into a single product - a spring jacket for a boy.

Manufacturing:

1. First of all, you need to connect more or less large parts of the jacket. Place the two side back pieces to the sides of the center back and pin if necessary. Be careful: there may be noticeable holes in the raincoat fabric from the pins. So, if you can, try to avoid over-piercing the fabric. Sew the sides to the center piece using a straight stitch at intervals of 3.

2. Fold the seam allowances towards the central part and stitch with a straight seam along the front side.

3. Attach the back yoke to the resulting part (face to face) and sew with a straight seam. Then stitch the seam allowance in the same way, folding it towards the top part (yoke).

4. Unlike the lining option, where the sleeves are one-piece, two parts of the sleeves are cut from the main fabric. Now you need to sew them in pairs on a machine and immediately iron the seam allowances on the wrong side.

5. Well, then – stitch off the allowances along the front side on both sides of the stitched seam.

5. The back of the jacket and the sleeves are ready - which means you need to sew all the parts of the front. Attach the burlap pockets to the central and side parts of the shelf (face to face) and fasten with pins.

6. Sew the burlap to these parts, and then turn the burlap over and stitch along the right side, making a small indent from the joint of the fabrics.

7. Place the center and side pieces together, matching the burlap pockets, and sew them along the wrong side using a straight seam. Place seams only at the top (before the pocket) and at the bottom (after the pocket).

8. Turn both burlap towards the side of the shelf and stitch the seam connecting the side to the central part of the shelf. This is what a neat entrance to your pocket should look like:

9. Turn the product over to the wrong side and stitch the burlap pockets around their perimeter.

10. On the front side, make tacks at the top and bottom of the pocket opening. To do this, sew a short and shallow zigzag seam perpendicular to the entrance to the pocket.

11. Sew the front yoke to the front pocket panel. Fold the seam allowance up (to the yoke side) and topstitch with a straight seam. Repeat the same with the other shelf: make a pocket and attach a yoke.

12. Attach the shelves to the back part: sew the shoulder seams, fold the allowances towards the back and topstitch.

13. Attach the sleeves to the armholes of the jacket and attach them with pins (at least at the upper shoulder point).

14. Machine stitch the sleeves of the jacket. When sewing this jacket, you often have to stitch the seams (for additional decorativeness of the product), but in the case of the sleeves this is not necessary.

15. Machine stitch the side seams of the jacket that go into the sleeve seams.

16. The base of the jacket is ready! Now you need to attach the cuffs. Connect the cuff parts into a ring and stitch the edges on the wrong side. Then turn it right side out.

17. “Put” the cuffs on the edges of the sleeves and secure with pins, slightly stretching the cuffs.

18. Sew the cuffs and turn the sleeves right side out.

19. Sew two pieces of raincoat fabric to the bottom tension strip - parts of the bottom strip, which will be located next to the bottom of the zipper.

20. Unfold the jacket garter and stitch only one edge to the bottom of the jacket.

21. Sew the other edge of the garter to the lining of the jacket.

22. Fold the front and lining parts of the jacket as shown in the photo: as if inserting a folded lower garter strip between them. Sew a line next to the seam where you joined the placket to the lining. But at the same time, start and end the seam 10 cm from the edge of the sides of the jacket (to make it easier to embroider the zipper).

23. Turn both parts of the jacket - front and lining - inside out and carefully attach the lining sleeves to the jacket sleeves. Sew the bottom edges of the lining sleeves to the cuff allowances.

24. The cuffs and bottom placket are sewn on!

25. Unfasten the detachable snake completely and attach its halves to the sides of the jacket. Secure the zipper using a hand basting stitch.

26. Sew the zipper to the sides of the jacket using a zipper foot.

27. Slightly back up the side seam of the lining and turn it inside out. Place the collar piece, folded in half, between the lining and the main part of the jacket (similar to how you sewed in the lower compression strap of the jacket) and sew with a straight seam. Turn the jacket right side out, stitch the collar, slightly moving away from the junction of the fabrics. Carefully stitch the hole made in the lining.

The spring jacket for the boy is ready! It can be sewn in a day or two, spending very little money. A jacket garter can be replaced with a regular “2 by 2” ribana, because looking for a garter of the desired shade in stores is a thankless task. Using the pattern of this model, you can sew a very light windbreaker jacket for spring walks!

To look stylish in the cool season, jeans and a cool jacket are enough for a teenager. They categorically reject hats, and mothers know how much effort must be made to force the boys to wear them. But let's get smarter and make this excellent jacket with a hood. No teenager will refuse this. It is warm, comfortable, and the “right” color. And even if the wind picks up, the hood will always help! And most importantly, the pattern of a jacket for a boy is very simple to construct!

Children's clothing patterns
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To create a sweatshirt pattern, you can use them when constructing. Since the jacket is insulated, additional increases must be made to the measurements. Depending on the thickness of the insulation, increases can be increased.

Rice. 1. Pattern of a jacket for a boy - building the back and front

Construction of the back of the jacket

From point A, set down AG = Armhole depth as measured + 2 cm (increase for armhole freedom), AT = Back length to waist as measured. From the obtained points, draw horizontal segments to the right until they intersect with segment AD. Points T1, G1 were obtained.

Back neckline. From point A, set aside 7 cm to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 1.5 cm for all sizes). From point 7, set aside 2.5 cm upward (for all sizes) and draw a concave line for the back neckline.

Side line. Divide GG1 in half and draw the segment down until it intersects with the DC line - you get the segment G4H - the side line of the jacket.

Auxiliary armhole lines. From point G4, set aside ½ of the armhole width to the left and to the right according to the measurement with an increase: (Spr+4)/2. Points G2 and G3 were obtained. From the obtained points, lift up the perpendiculars until they intersect with line AB. Points P and P1 were obtained.

From point P, set down 2 cm and through point 2 draw a back shoulder line with a length equal to the shoulder length according to the measurement + an increase for shoulder lengthening of 1.5-2 cm.
To draw a line for the back armhole, divide corner G2 in half and draw a bisector 3 cm long. Draw the back armhole line from the extreme point of the shoulder through the middle point of division PG2, point 3 to point G4.

Construction of the front of the jacket

Lifting the shelf. From point T1, set up the length of the front to the waist according to your measurements - point W is obtained.

Front neck. From point W, draw a segment 7 cm long to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck as measured + 1.5 cm for all sizes). From point 7, set down 7.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 2 cm for all sizes) and draw a concave line for the front neckline.

Shoulder front. From point P1, put 2 cm down and through point 2 draw the front shoulder with a length equal to the length of the back shoulder.

Front armhole line. To draw the front armhole line, divide corner G3 in half and draw a bisector 3 cm long. Draw the back armhole line from the extreme point of the front shoulder through the middle point of division PG3, point 3 to point G4.

Place the pocket lines on the shelf as shown in Fig. 1, transfer the leaflet onto tracing paper.
The size of the leaf depends on the size of the jacket and can be increased or reduced according to the proportions, the location of the leaf can also vary depending on the size.

After constructing the back and front of the jacket, mark the stitch lines (they are paired at a distance of 1 cm from each other) and proceed to constructing the sleeve pattern.

Sleeve pattern for a boy's jacket

Draw rectangle ABCD. AB = DC = Upper arm circumference + 10 cm.

IMPORTANT! The increase can be increased or decreased, depending on the thickness of the insulation.

Rice. 2. Pattern of a jacket for a boy - construction of the sleeves

Sleeve length - rectangle lines AD and BC are equal to the length of the sleeve according to measurement.

Height of the rim. From point A down, set aside 1/3 of the half chest circumference according to the measurement and place point P. From point P to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with line BC. Mark the intersection point with the letter P1.

Auxiliary sleeve lines. Divide line AB into four equal parts. Designate the middle point of division with the letter O, and the division points on the left and right - O1, and O2. Points H, H1 and H2 were obtained on the bottom line of the sleeve. From points O, O1, O2, lower straight lines down until they intersect with the DC line and their intersection points are designated by the letters H, H1, H2.

Okat line. Connect points P, O, as well as O, P1 with dotted lines. Mark the intersection points of the auxiliary lines with the letters O3 and O4. Then divide all the segments of the dotted lines (between the auxiliary lines) in half. From the division points at right angles to the dotted line, set aside: from line PO3 down 0.5 centimeters, line O3O up 2 centimeters, OO4 up 1.5 centimeters, O4P1 down 2 cm. From point O3 up set aside 1.5 cm and set point O5. Draw the okat line through points P, 0.5, O5, 2, O, 1.5, O4, 2, P1. O - high point of the sleeve edge.

EXTRA TIP! After the sleeve pattern is constructed, measure the length of the sleeve collar along the pattern from point P through point O to point P1. Similarly, measure the front and back armhole lengths of your pattern for comparison. Compare the obtained values: the length of the edging should be 1-2.5 cm greater than the length of the armhole (for fitting the edging). In any other case, you should increase or decrease the increase when constructing the width of the sleeve mesh.

To narrow the sleeve at the bottom, draw 2 segments as shown in Fig. 2. The width of the sleeve at the bottom can be increased, depending on the size and thickness of the insulation. Along the descent line of the rim, mark the place for the emblem - see fig. 2 (glue the finished emblem along the markings and additionally stitch along the contour).

Pattern of a hood for a jacket for a boy

The hood pattern is modeled using the basic hood pattern. The width of the clasp is 9 cm.

Rice. 3. Pattern of a jacket for a boy - building a hood

Instructions for cutting and sewing the jacket are in the next lesson! Subscribe to our free newsletter and be the first to know all the news on the site.

A windbreaker for a baby should be convenient and comfortable. This model is made taking into account all the necessary wearing needs. The hood will protect your child from rain and wind. In-seam pockets keep all your small items close at hand. When sewing a jacket, you can combine the main fabric made in different color variations.

Download the pattern windbreakers for little boy for free You can find the size you need using the following links:

Size (height)	Bust	Waist circumference	Hip circumference	Age appropriate
size 98	54-56	51-53	55-58	3 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 104	55-57	52-54	57-60	4 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 110	56-58	53-55	59-62	5 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 116	57-59	54-56	61-64	6 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 122	58-62	55-58	63-67	7 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 128	61-65	57-59	66-70	8 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 134	64-68	58-61	69-73	9 years old	Payment for goods Buy

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Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Composition of the pattern set

Please note: the hood consists of two side parts and one central one. It is not depicted on the technical drawing.

This model is lightweight for cool, lazy days. The lining, made of fleece or velor, acts as a thin insulation. If you use this pattern to sew a warmer jacket using padding polyester, you will need to make increases at the seams and additionally cut out a windproof zipper strip.

Recommendations for choosing fabrics: raincoats, water-repellent fabrics, quilted jackets, baloney fabrics. As insulation for winter version padding polyester can be used, and for the lining you can use fleece or regular lining fabric.

Difficulty level is above average.

Cutting from the main fabric:
. Front part - 2 children;
. back - 1 child. with fold;
. selection - 2 children;
. back neck facing - 1 piece. with fold;
. central part of the hood - 1 child;
. side part of the hood - 2 children;
. sleeve - 2 children;
From finishing fabric:
. pocket - 2 children;
. central front trim - 2 parts.
Cutting from lining fabric:
. front lining - 2 pieces;
. back lining - 1 piece with fold;
. sleeve lining - 2 pieces;
. lining of the central part of the hood - 1 piece;
. lining of the side part of the hood - 2 pieces.
When cutting parts, it is necessary to leave allowances for seams and cuts - 1.5 cm, for the hem of the bottom of the jacket and sleeves - 4 cm. You also need to make the appropriate markings for the correct alignment of the parts.
Stages of work:
1. Fold the center front trim piece right side to the right side of the front and sew a seam. Iron the cuts to the front.
2. Iron the pocket allowances to the wrong side and stitch to the front parts along the marked lines with the wrong side to the right side of the front.
3. If desired, the pockets can be trimmed with decorative braid or trim, having previously sewn it onto the pocket piece or inserted into the stitching seams of the finishing piece and side seams.
4. Fold the parts of the shelves and backrest right sides inward and sew shoulder and side seams. Iron the cuts onto the back.
5. Sew the seams of the sleeves. If desired, you can stitch the sleeves along the seams.
6. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, slightly adjusting the edges to the desired size.
7. We connect the side parts of the hood with the central part, folding them with their right sides inward. Iron the cuts and make notches along the entire seam.
8. A detailed connection of the hood with the lining fabric can be seen here: https://youtu.be/VSgm24XHad4
9. We sew in the hood, matching the shoulder seams. We sew the neck facing at the top and turn it down to connect it to the lining.
10. We connect the parts from the lining fabric to each other, sew in the details of the sleeves, just like from the main fabric, fitting along the edges.
11. The hanger for the jacket can also be made from lining fabric or from decorative lacing, securing it to the front side of the neck of the back part made of lining.
12. Fold the windbreaker with the lining right sides together and sew the hem cleanly below the cut mark for the zipper, along the facing of the back neckline and the bottom. Turn the windbreaker out through the open side where the zipper is attached.
13. You can watch this video to properly attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves: https://youtu.be/S072k19W2GM
14. Baste the zipper halves under the edges of the sides so that the teeth are visible.
15. Stitch the windbreaker along the sides and front neckline of the hood, and then along the bottom edge.
16. If desired, the seam can be laid at a width of 4-5 cm, for threading the fixing cord into the drawstring.