Is it difficult to sew a dressing gown for a child? Ideas and patterns for children's dressing gowns Sew a terry dressing gown for a boy with a hood

It’s so nice to sew something new for your child with your own hands. For example, such a necessary thing after swimming as a robe with a hood.

Sewing such a robe for a boy yourself is not difficult. We'll tell you how to make a pattern that will help you create a cute piece for your baby's wardrobe.

First you need to remove everything necessary measures.

  • Neck circumference (NC).
  • Shoulder length (HL).
  • Back length to waist (BW).
  • Front length to waist (accident).
  • Product back length (DI).
  • Armhole depth (HD).
  • Armhole width (W).
  • Hip circumference (H).
  • Sleeve length (SL).
  • Circumference height of head.

The quality of your work and the convenience of new clothes for your child will depend on the accuracy of the data in the future.

How to make a pattern

Let's consider the stages of completing the drawing required for cutting a children's robe.

Base for back and shelf

Reference: The construction of the back and front is done in the same way at first, so you can draw the patterns for the front and back at once.

  • On paper measure DI along the edge and put points A and B. You need to measure so that from top edge paper to A was at least 5-10 cm.
  • Divide the OB measurement by 4, then to the result add 2 cm.
  • The resulting number measure on paper from A and B perpendicular to the edge.
  • We draw lines and put points B and D, respectively, the segments AB and BG will be obtained.
  • We connect along the line B and D. It should be a rectangle.
  • Add 0.5 cm to the DTS measurement and the resulting value put on segment AB from A. Here we put point T1.
  • The GP measure, having previously added 2 cm to it, must also be measured on the segment AB from A. This will be G1.
  • From G1 and T1 draw lines perpendicular to segment AB to the VG segment and, accordingly, set G2 and T2.
  • Then take measurements We divide the ShP by 2 and postpone the resulting result from G2 to G1G2 and call point G3.
  • Next from G3 draw a line parallel to segment A to AB B. We call the connection point the letter P.
  • Divide the resulting segment G3P in half and place point P1.
  • Connect P1 to G2 with a smooth concave line.

Building the back

  • To build the back neck we need OSH measure. We divide this measurement by 6 and then add 1 to the resulting number.

Important! Remember the obtained value, it will be useful to us when constructing the front neckline.

  • We put the resulting value from A to AB and call it Ш1.
  • From Ш1 perpendicular to line AB we measure 1-2 cm and put point Ш2.

Important! The size of the perpendicular depends on the child for whom the robe is sewn. The smaller the boy, the shorter this line.

  • Section Ш1Ш2 should not be inside the constructed rectangle ABCD, but from the outside.
  • Using a smooth concave arc we connect Ш2 to A.
  • From P on segment PG3 we measure 1.5 cm and put P2.
  • From Ш2 we draw a straight line through P2.
  • Then add 3 cm to the DP measurements and the resulting value measure on line Ш2П2, starting from Ш2.
  • We call the resulting point P3. P3 should be located after P2. We connect P3 to P1 with a smooth concave arc.

Building a shelf

  • From T1 to A we set aside the road accident measure, after adding 0.5 to it cm and call point Ш3.
  • If you measured everything correctly, then Ш3 will be located above A outside the rectangle ABCD.
  • Next from Ш3 we draw a parallel AB line.
  • On this line we lay out the segment Ш3Ш4, equal to АШ1(back pattern).
  • From Ш3 down past A we measure 6 cm and put point Ш5.
  • We connect Ш5 with Ш4 with a smooth curved arc.
  • We draw a line further towards Ш4 along the segment Ш3Ш4. We also draw a line upward along the segment G3P. Lines must cross. We call the intersection point P4.
  • From P4 down P4G3 we set aside 3.5 cm - it turns out P5.
  • We connect Sh4 and P5 along a ruler and continue further from P5.
  • On this line from Ш4 we lay a segment equal to Ш2П2 (back pattern) and put point P6.
  • We connect P1 and P6 with a smooth curved arc.

Construction of the sleeve

  • Add 3-4 cm to the OP measurement for a loose fit.
  • Received value put it down on paper, calling the segment P1P2.
  • From P1 and P2 draw parallel lines down, equal to the DR measure. Name the segments P1H1 and P2H2. The result will be a rectangle Р1Р2Н2Н1.
  • Р1Р2 and Н1Н2 divide in half and connect the division points together, calling them O1 and O2. You should get a segment O1O2 parallel to P1H1 and P2H2.
  • From O1 down to O2 measure the height of the sleeve cap - O3. We take this measurement from the back and front patterns. On the back, you need to measure the distance from P3 to the line G1G2, parallel to the segment PG3. And at the front, the distance P5 to the line G1G3, also parallel to the segment PG3.
  • We add the resulting measurements together and then divide them in half.. The resulting value will be the height of the sleeve edge.
  • From O3 we draw a line parallel to the segment P1P2 to the right and left until it intersects with P1H1 and P2H2 - O4O5.
  • We connect O1 with O4 and O5. Divide O1O4 in half - O6.
  • From O6 towards P1 we set aside 1 cm and through this point we draw a curved arc from O1 to O4.
  • Divide O1O5 into 4 equal parts and set aside 1 cm up from the first division point and 0.5 cm down from the third division point.
  • Connect O1 to O5 through these points with a smooth convex-concave arc, intersecting the straight line O1O5 through the second point.

Construction of the hood

The hood pattern is based on head circumference + an increase of 4–8 cm and head height + an increase of 3–5 cm.

  • Need to build a rectangle by these standards. In it, head circumference + increase will be horizontal lines, and head height + increase will be vertical lines.
  • In the back right corner you need to put 2 cm down, in the bottom left corner up - 4 cm.
  • Connect the resulting points with a smooth curved arc, touching the top and left sides of the rectangle.
  • Measure the length of the necks on the front and back patterns, fold them and add 1 cm.
  • Place the resulting value from a point on the left side of the rectangle, raised by 4 cm, to the bottom line of the rectangle.
  • Connect these dots together.
  • Also connect the newly obtained intersection points on the bottom side with the right side.

The pattern is ready! Have fun sewing your boy's robe!

As promised, I’m showing the cut of a children’s robe with set-in sleeves, a wraparound design, and a hood.

Fold the fabric in half, placing the edge towards you.

Align the bottom, mark up the length of the robe + hem allowance for the bottom. We put a mark, Now from this mark down we put the length to the waist, we put a mark. Draw the top line and the waist line, parallel to the bottom line.

We retreat from the edge by the width of the edge, mark a line perpendicular to the bottom line. This is the half skid line. We mark the width of the half-skid from it. For children's dressing gowns, 8-10 cm will be enough. Draw a line in the middle of the shelf, parallel to the half-skid line.

From the line of the middle of the shelf, mark the width of the front. Since this is a robe, you can add more to the looseness of the fit, 3-4 cm. Front width = 1/4 hip circumference + 3-4 cm (as you like). Draw a line for the side seam parallel to the line in the middle of the front.

We measure the same distance from the side seam for the back, put a mark and draw a line for the middle of the back.

We apply the base of the back to the line of the middle of the back, outline it. We apply the shelf to the line of the middle of the shelf. Outline the shelf.

From the top point of the shoulder seam we draw a new cut of the front neckline, it ends 2-3 cm above the waist line, on the half-skid line.

The side seam can not be cut, but made one-piece.

If you want to fit the robe a little, you can design it as a dart on the side seam. The length of the dart below the waist is 10-12 cm.

We move the fabric along the middle line of the back. We cut out the shelf and back.

In this photo, a marker marks the length of the neck cut for the length of the lower cut of the hood.

If we made the robe with a straight side seam, that is, wider than the base, then the sleeve must be added in width, only at the top, not across the entire width.

The wider the scent, the higher the neckline.

Don't forget about seam allowances.

These are the robes I got, according to this pattern.

Good luck everyone!!! I'm waiting for questions.

Size: height 92 cm (2 years)

Measurements(you can substitute your values):

Height (P) = 92 cm

Chest circumference third (OgZ) = 53 cm

Back width (W) = 22 cm

Neck circumference (Osh) = 26.5 cm

Shoulder width (W) = 7 cm

Back armhole height (Vprz) = 12.6 cm

Back length to waist (Lts) = 23 cm

Arm length to wrist line (Drzap) = 32 cm

Wrist circumference (Ozap) = 12.6 cm

Waist (From) = 51 cm

Distance from waist to knee (Dtk) = 32 cm

Neck point height (Wpcs) = 75.5 cm

Distance from the cervical point to the apex of the head or head height (Vgol) = P - Vsht = 92 - 75.5 = 16.5 cm

1/2 neck line length (Dgor) = back neck length + front neck length = 6.9 + 11.4 = 18.3 cm

Construction of the backrest drawing:

AT = Dts = 23 cm; AN = product length (optional) = Dtk = 32 cm; AA1 = % Og3 + 2 (6) = 53: 4 + 2 (6) = 15.25 (19.25) cm; AA2 = 1.5 cm; AG = Vprz + 4 = 12.6 + 2 (4) = 14.6 (16.6) cm; AL = Ug A2G = 15.1: 2 = 7.55 cm; A2P = 1/4 Vprz - 2 = 12.6: 4 - 2 = 1.15 cm; AA3 = 1/5 Osh + 0.8 = 26.5: 5 + 0.8 = 6.1 cm; GG1 = Ug Shs + 2 (3.5) = 22:2 + 2 (3.5) = 13(14.5) cm; PP1 = GG1 = LL1; P1P2 = 0.75 1 cm; NN1 = TT1 = GG2 = AA1; P2P3 = 1 cm; AP3 = AP2; G2G3 = G3G4 = T1T2 = H1H2 = 2 cm; P3R = Drzap - 3 = 32 - 3 = 29 cm; PP1 = Ug Ozap + 4 (5) = 12.6: 2 + 4 (5) = 10 (11) cm.

Construction of the front drawing:

On the drawing of the back, make the following changes: AA4 = 1/50w + 1 = 26.5: 5 + 1 = 6.3 cm (front neck line).

Construction of a drawing of a robe:

On the drawing of the basic design of the kimono shoulder garment, make the following changes:

1. Back. CCD = SG4 = Ug P3G4 = 16.2: 2 = 8D cm; СС1 = Г4С1 = 1/г Г4С = 7.5: 2 = 3.75 cm; G4S2 = 1/3G4R1 = 22.8: 3 - 7.6 cm; H2H4 = 2.5 cm; A3A5 = 0.5 cm.

2. Before. P3S = SG4 = Ug P3G4 = 16.2; 2 = 8.1 cm; СС1 = Г4С1 = 1/2 Г4С = 7.5: 2 = 3.75 cm; G4S2 = 1/3G4R1 = 22.8: 3 = 7.6 cm; HH3 = 1 cm; H2H4 = 2.5 cm; A3A5 = 0.5 cm; A4A6 = 1.5 cm; HH6 = H3H5 = TT2 = GG3 = 2.7 (8) cm (optional).

3. Sleeve. Copy the back of the sleeve. Mirror the front of the sleeve. Draw a vertical perpendicular line. Align both sleeve pieces along this line. Cut the sleeve along line C1C2 and separate the parts by about 3 cm, as shown in the drawing. Reshape the bottom line of the sleeve. Raise the top of the edging by about 1 cm. Reshape the edging line by bending section SG4. PP2 = P1P3 = PP4 - P1P5 = 6 cm (optional); P4P5 = P2P3.

4. Hood. KK1 = Ug Dgor - 1 = 18.3 - 1 = 17.3 cm; KK2 = Vgol + 4 = 16.5 + 4 = 20.5 cm; K2K3 = KK1; K2K4 = 1/3 K2K3 + 2 = 17.3: 3 + 2 = 7.7 cm; IK4K5 = 1/3 K2K3 + 0.5 =

17.3: 3 + 0.5 = 6.2 cm; K5K6 = K3K7 = K4K5; KK8 = Ug KK1 - 1 = 17.3: 2 -1 = 7.65 cm; CC9 = 0.75 cm; K1K10 = 1/5KK1 = 17.3: 5 = 3.46 cm; K10K11 = 1 cm; K3K12 = 1/3K1K3 = 20.5: 3 = 6.83 cm; K7K14 = K8K13.

5. Ear. УУ1 = 3 cm (optional); УУ2 = УУ3 = 2 cm (optional).

Model details:

Back - one piece with fold

Front with front part of the hood - two parts

Back of the hood - two parts

Sleeve - two parts

Trimming of the bottom of the sleeve - two parts

Trimming the edge of the side and the hood - two parts

Belt in finished form length 121 cm (from + 70 cm) and width 3 cm.

Ear - four parts

Belt loops - two parts

Allowances for seams and hems are 1-1.5 cm.

Uncover

When cutting, it is important to position the pattern pieces in the correct direction of the grain of the fabric. When cutting on terry fabric, where you cannot draw lines with chalk, the patterns can be pinned to the fabric with needles and, leaving seam allowances of 1 - 1.5 cm, cut immediately.

The procedure for sewing a model:

Sew all the details of the robe. Sew the back of the hood. Sew the back of the hood to the back neckline. Sew the front parts of the hood. Stitch the edges of the side and the front parts of the hood. Stitch the ears. Sew the ears to the front of the hood. Sew the shoulder seams and back of the hood to the front of the hood.

Sew in the sleeves. Sew the side seams. Finish the bottom of the sleeves with facings.

Treat the bottom of the robe. Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise and stitch on three sides along the edge by 0.5 cm. Leave a small turning hole in the middle. Turn the belt out and front side hand stitch the turnout hole.

Sew the belt loops along the waistline, at the side seams. Put on your belt. The terry bathrobe is ready!

Note: A children's robe can be decorated with an applique, placing it on the back or front.

Master class Natalia Steblyanskaya

It's no secret that children's clothing today is quite expensive. And the fact that kids grow quickly and need to update their wardrobe quite often often makes many parents think of looking for a way to reduce this expense item in the family budget.

If there are several children growing up in a family, then the things of the eldest can be “inherited” by the younger ones. However this is not the only way save. You can reduce, and sometimes even minimize, the costs of children's clothing by knowing how to cut and sew. The technology of sewing clothes for children is extremely simple, and therefore even minimal experience in sewing is enough to create a variety of products for your kids with your own hands.

So, for example, to sew a warm robe for a 1.5 year old girl you will need:

  • 55 cm flannel or flannel (with a width of 150 cm),
  • thread in the color of the fabric (3 spools),
  • pieces of proclamilin,
  • 5 simple buttons.

A sewing mom will probably have almost everything from this simple list in her pantry.

As for the time required, it is quite possible to assemble such a thing in 4-5 hours of leisurely work. In other words, you will only need to spend one long or a couple of short evenings free from household chores.

And this one tells you how to sew a women's summer robe for the home.

How to cut and sew a baby flannel robe for a 1.5 year old girl

Before cutting, the fabric needs to be prepared - ironed with a steam iron, and ideally, washed in warm water, dried and ironed.

Any proven pattern can serve as the basis of a robe, be it basic foundation dresses with shirt sleeves or a children's shirt.

Patterns should be laid out on fabric folded in half and outlined along the contours. Then you need to add seam allowances to them. Stitched seams and set seams should be 1 cm, hemmed seams should be 0.7 cm, hem seams should be 1 cm.

A classic robe consists of two shelves, a back, two sleeves, an upper collar, a lower collar (you can make it split, from 2 to 3 parts) and a belt (if there is a lack of fabric, it can also be cut out of parts).

The upper collar should be duplicated with a thin adhesive pad (proclamylene or non-woven fabric), and then fixed. Adjusting the collar involves trimming the excess adhesive pad protruding beyond its contours.

The lower collar should be sewn together from parts, the seam should be ironed.

The collars should be placed on top of each other face to face and pinned together at the ends and flap.

Then you should stitch the collar with a seam 5-7 mm wide, remove the auxiliary pins. The seam allowances at the corners of the collar need to be trimmed.

The collar must be turned out, straightened and ironed, fixing the edge from the upper collar towards the lower one.

Along the ends and overhang of the collar should be laid machine stitch. The stitch width can be any.

Then, using hand stitches, you need to fasten both collars along the stitching cut. A slight overflow should form from the top collar. Otherwise, the collar bent in half in the finished product will tighten due to the insufficient width of the upper collar.

After this, you need to overcast the shoulder sections on the back.

On the shelves of the robe, you need to duplicate one-piece strips 3 cm wide, and overcast their longitudinal sections. The strips themselves must be ironed onto the wrong side of the parts.

You also need to overcast the shoulder sections of the shelves.

Then you need to sew a collar into the neck. Please note that the ends of the collar should only reach the middle of the width of the straps, otherwise the robe will not be fastened due to the interfering collar.

The stitching seam for the collar must be overcast and ironed towards the product.

Sleeves should be sewn into the open armholes of the product. The seams must be overcast and pressed onto the sleeve.

The side sections of the robe must be ironed open, since this is required by the thickness of the fabric used, as well as the side slits at the bottom of the robe.

Then you need to sew the side seams of the product, iron the seam allowances.

If necessary, you need to adjust the robe.

Then you need to grind the corners in the ledge of the strip and the cuts along the bottom of the product.

The bottom cut itself should be overcast.

The corners at the bottom of the robe must be turned out and straightened. The hem allowance for the hem should be ironed 1 cm towards the wrong side for ease of further processing.

Similarly, you need to hem the bottom of the sleeves.

A small belt can be an addition to the robe.

The cut piece must be ironed in half along its entire length.

Then the belt must be folded along its length, inside out, and pinned together. This will help you sew the belt without distortion.

The belt should be hemmed and the pins removed. When laying a stitch, you need to leave a section for turning it on the face.

The hemmed belt must be turned out and ironed.

A finishing stitch should be given along its perimeter.

Lastly, you need to mark and sew the loops on the strips of the product, and also sew on the buttons.

A cute warm robe for a girl is ready! It's time to try on something new!

It is known that after a long bath, when leaving the bathroom, a child is exposed to a sharp temperature change, which is why today we will look at how to properly cut a children's robe.

Style
Making a pattern for a robe for a child is quite simple. First of all, you need to decide on the style. A robe with a zipper will be more practical for a child, since when moving, the hems of the robe will not fly apart in different directions. The robe is best modeled with a hood.

Initial data

Measure Designation Meaning
Sleeve length
Druk 37,5
Wrist circumference
Oz 12,5
Hood height
Vkap 25
Head circumference
Headbands 51

Pattern of the back detail
(1). First of all, lengthen the T-shirt pattern to the required length of the robe. Next we deepen the neck. To do this, along the line of the shoulder slope we put 2 cm, put t.G2. From t.V put down 1 cm, put t.B1. Connecting the dots G1 And B1 smooth line.

(2). From t.S1 put down 2-3 cm, put t.S2.

(3). From t.L1 continue the line of the shoulder bevel and put the measurement on it dr(Sleeve length), set Vol.I. From Vol.I Oz (wrist circumference)+(10-14 ) cm for a loose fit - set t.I1. We connect it with t.S2.

(4). From t.L1 along the line L1I we postpone 5-7 cm down and put t.L2 t.S1. From t.L2 1-1,5 see and put t.L3- the top of the sleeve cap.

(5). From t.S2 extend the line to the right С2I1 on 2 cm, put t.S3 t.S1 and further from t.L3. We put double notches on the sleeve cap and on the armhole of the back half at the same distance from the points L2 And L3.

Pattern of shelf parts
(6). From t.G lay down along the line of the shoulder slope 2 cm- we put t.G1. From t.A1 lay down a segment equal to 1/6 Size + 1 cm, put T.V. We connect it with a smooth line with t.G1- we get a new neckline.

(7). From t.S1 put down 2-3 cm, put t.S2.

(8). From t.L3 we continue the line of the shoulder bevel and put the measurement on this line dr (Sleeve length), set Vol.I. From Vol.I draw a perpendicular and mark the measurement on it Oz+10-14 cm, put t.I1. We connect it with t.S2.

(9). From t.L3 along the line L3I we postpone 5-7 cm down and put t.L2. We connect it with a straight line to t.S1. From t.L2 we put it up along the line of the shoulder slope 1-1.5 cm and put t.L4- the top of the sleeve cap. We connect it with t.S2.

(10). From t.S2 continue the line I1C2 on 1.5 cm, put t.S3. We connect it with a smooth line with t.S1. On the line of the armhole and sleeve piping we put it away from the top of the sleeve piping and from the point L2 down the same amount - put a single notch - the control point for sewing in the sleeve.

(11). We connect the drawing of the front and back parts of the sleeve - we get a solid part of the robe sleeve.

Hood pattern
(12). On the shelf from t.A1 put the measurement up Vkap+5-7 cm for loose fit, set t.N. From it to the left we put ¼ of the measurements about head grip+3-5 cm to fit freely, set t.N1. From the resulting point we draw down a segment equal to the segment A1N, put t.G2 and connect it with t.A1.

(13). From t.G2 set aside up 1.5 cm - t.G3 G3,G1,B- the lower section of the hood, sewn into the neck of the back and front parts of the robe.

(14). From t.N put down 3 cm, put t.S. From it to the right we put it 4 cm - t.S1. From t.N1 draw the bisector of the angle and plot it on it 4 cm- we put t.N2. Connecting the points with a smooth line G3, N2, S1- we get the middle seam of the hood. Connect the points with a smooth line S1 And IN.

The hood pattern is ready.
Children's robe ready!